Saturday, January 25, 2020

I'm on a (Platte) plain


One of the finest beaches in the hemisphere
At last, I'm writing about the sixth out of six hikes in six days that I took back in 2018, all at new-to-me places. It was an interesting time for me and I can't believe how much has happened since then. That includes some excellent trips yet to be detailed here... soon!

Bass Lake
Platte Plains Trail is a 14-mile loop within Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, one of many in the sprawling and beautiful park. Looking back, it's hard to believe that I had never hiked it before that day, as I've been swimming at the northern trailhead many, many times.

That trail head is Esch Road Beach, a road end beach that's one of the finest in the Midwest. It's also the site of a ghost town called Aral, one of myriad boom-and-bust towns that followed the fate of the lumber industry, and one with quite a history.


The path winds through fairly flat land just to the east of some low dunes along Lake Michigan. It takes you through planted pines, natural forests and meadows. At one point it runs close enough to the dunes to tempt you to make a little side trip to see what's on top.

It's a decent view, especially in the fall.
Generally, bushwhacking up the side of a dune is a bad idea. They're notoriously unsettled ground and just a few people going off-trail can cause serious erosion. That said, I was hardly the first hiker to take this side-trip, so I forged ahead.

It's not hard to find spots like this, where you think, "Oh, it's just a short side trip to the lake," and it turns into an ordeal through what could be a setting for a post-apocalyptic short film. I've found deer bones strewn among dried juniper bushes and trails that split infinite ways but never take you where you want to go. This time I got lucky.

Lake ahead
I hiked along Lake Michigan until I got to White Pine Backcountry Campground. It's tiny and spartan, just as the name would suggest, so if you go there, bring a water filter. There were a few hardy people braving the chill to spend a quiet night in the woods during the far shoulder season. Fall camping is marginal at best for me, but with the right company it's worth the trouble.

At the south end is another trail head, right between Otter and Bass lakes. It's a proper little park with bathrooms and picnic tables, and access to another trail that'll bring you back to Esch Road. Along this trail was a cabin that had a sign in the window expressing the owner's frustration with burglaries. It informed anyone thinking of trying it again that anything of value had already been stolen...

There are lots of possibilities with this relatively compact little trail loop. It's a great place for a weekend backpacking trip, or just somewhere to hike on a summer morning, plop down in an isolated patch of beach and spend the day. I have plans to use it to teach backpacking newbies the sport. Or maybe you just want to go and walk.

The plastic rat on the picnic table is your friend!

Check back later to find out what I've been up to lately. Highlights include a trip to North Manitou Island, Mexico City and a look back at another urban trek in San Francisco.

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